Spice Grill (Closed as of 2006)

For many moons, I lamented the closing of Tiffin, a great Indian spot downtown. The graceful service, elegant presentation and richly spiced food made the restaurant one of my personal favorites.

So, I was very pleased to find that Tiffin had reopened as Spice Grill. When I stepped inside today, I was greeted by an impressive lunch buffet. Every weekday morning, Chef Jai Rao goes to the market to decide what the daily dishes will be. Today, the buffet included hot eggplant salad with black mustard seed, tandoori chicken, spicy lamb stew and crispy lentil fritters. I was in heaven as I garnished my plate with salty mango pickles and ladled on the cucumber raita and tamarind sauce. As I sat down to eat, I received a basket of hot crackly buttered nan to sop up the sauce with.

All selections were subtly spiced, greaseless and exceedingly tasty! I assure you that you will never look at an all-you-can-eat lunch buffet the same way after eating at Spice Grill.

Spice Grill: 18 Murray St., (212) 791-3511.